Modern Retro
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2017 - Today

CHAPTER 5: MODERN RETRO

1880s-1930s
1940s-1950s
1950s-1960s
1970s-2010s
FROM 2017 TO TODAY
INTRO
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
2023
2024

CASUAL, INCLUSIVE, AND SUSTAINABLE NEO-LUXURY

In 2017, Breitling was sold to a leading private equity firm, CVC Capital Partners. When the investment group gave the lead of the company to watch-industry veteran Georges Kern, it marked the beginning of a forward-thinking repositioning of the brand and a return to the most important aspects of its heritage. Three new initiatives marked this new chapter in Breitling’s history: modern-retro product designs, sustainability and digitalization. And a new catch phrase summed up its aim: “Legendary future.”

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2018

REDISCOVERING IST ROOTS

The encounter between Georges Kern and long-time Breitling collector turned brand historian Fred Mandelbaum in the early days of Breitling's new ownership reshaped the brand's development path, giving rise to a new aesthetic known as “modern retro.” In that same year, Breitling committed to integrating the roots of the company by relaunching the Premier collection. This modern reinterpretation of the style-driven designs of the 1940s perfectly embodied founder Willy Breitling’s ethos of “from purpose to style” and quickly became a collector’s favorite. Breitling's bold move to host its own independent Summit in London for the launch of the Premier collection allowed the brand to garner exclusive media attention. This departure from the trade-show format marked the beginning of a new era in product launches. Breitling also introduced a new visual identity with its “script-B” logo, inspired by Willy Breitling's mid-20th century branding, which resonated with the company’s heritage while signaling its modern evolution.

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2020

GOING DIGITAL

When the COVID-19 pandemic struck, leaving businesses closed and the world at a standstill, Breitling adapted its Summit concept to the digital realm. The inaugural Breitling Summit Webcast in April 2020 featured Georges Kern expressing support for global efforts against the virus, followed by a series of product launches. These included the Superocean Heritage '57 Rainbow Edition, symbolizing hope during the crisis; the Navitimer 35, highlighting the importance of women's collections; and a complete redesign of the Chronomat. The use of digital platforms became a turning point for the brand. Breitling's Endurance Pro came onto the scene in 2020, aligning perfectly with the athleisure trend that gained momentum during the pandemic. The timepiece struck a nerve, encouraging outdoor activity at a time when social interactions were limited, and sports were a key outlet for many. In the same year, the brand also replaced its formerly heavy watch boxes with ones made from upcycled plastic bottles to reduce environmental impact. This new packaging was recognized by the Solar Impulse Foundation as one of its 1,000 Efficient Solutions. Breitling expanded its appeal to women with the Navitimer Automatic 38, offering a slimmer diameter version of its iconic pilot’s watch. The gamble paid off, with the Navitimer Automatic 38 becoming a top seller and paving the way for the introduction of the 41 mm version the following year.

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2022

BETTER GOLD, BETTER DIAMONDS, BETTER TRACEABILITY

The reimagined Navitimer made its grand entrance on its 70th birthday, unveiled aboard three Swiss International Air Lines flights to Geneva as a special “in-flight entertainment” edition of the Breitling Summit Webcast. The timepiece wove together the new and the nostalgic, pairing a sleek, modern silhouette and contemporary dial colors with the return of the classic AOPA logo on the dial. Always a risk to upend an icon, the move hit the mark by preserving the Navitimer’s spot-across-a-room design while giving it new life. That same year marked another momentous anniversary. In 1962, when Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter asked Willy Breitling to make a modified Navitimer for his upcoming space mission, Willy jumped at the challenge. The result was the Cosmonaute—a unique Navitimer with a 24-hour scale that accompanied Carpenter on his historic orbital journey, becoming the first Swiss wristwatch in space. A limited-edition 60th-anniversary Cosmonaute paid tribute to the historic flight . In terms of sustainability, Breitling took strides and started adding “better gold” (traceable artisanal gold) and “better diamonds” (responsible lab-grown gemstones) across its watch portfolio, starting with the Origins watch, a striking 38-millimeter Super Chronomat whose precious materials could be traced to their source, with every step on the supply-chain independently verified.

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2024

140 YEARS OF FIRSTS

In 2024, Breitling celebrated its 140th anniversary with a series of significant achievements and celebrations under the 140 Years of Firsts banner. Each month, a story of its pioneering achievements highlighted key milestones and revealed the sometimes untold stories behind Breitling’s innovations. Every watch purchased during the year included an exclusive anniversary certificate.

One of the highlights was the Time Capsule exhibition, a vintage watch exhibition curated from the Breitling archives displayed in over 50 boutiques worldwide. Breitling also released 140 Years in 140 Stories, a commemorative book detailing the brand's journey from its founding to its status as one of the world’s leading watchmakers.

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2017

A GENERALIST WATCH BRAND

While rebranding the company, Georges Kern and his team recognized the importance of drawing from Breitling's rich heritage, which began in a small workshop in St. Imier in 1884. They created a new corporate identity that blended historical elements with a modern outlook. Breitling expanded beyond its aviation-focused strategy to embrace its three historic universes: Air, Land, and Sea, redefining itself as a generalist Swiss watch brand offering a casual, sustainable, and inclusive alternative to traditional watchmakers. To promote this new identity, Breitling introduced #Squadonamission, replacing individual ambassadors with squads of three—masters of their respective fields. Breitling’s first digital initiative was to upgrade the brand's warranty system to a digital solution, providing real-time data transmission. The e-warranty card, featuring a QR code, enables fast activation at points of sale, offering customers easy access to watch documents and numerous benefits with a simple scan.

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2019

NEW BEGINNINGS

Breitling partnered with Outerknown, co-founded by pro surfer Kelly Slater, to create eco-friendly ECONYL straps from oceanic waste, such as discarded nylon fishing nets. Additionally, the brand launched its first historic re-edition, the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, celebrating one of its most iconic watches. A pivotal moment that underscored Breitling's emergence as a leader came with the decision not to exhibit at Baselworld anymore. This bold move marked a significant departure from the traditional watch industry norms. Instead, the brand started unveiling its innovations not as one of many at the annual Swiss watch fair but through regular in-person summits for journalists, customers, and an increasingly engaged industry audience.

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2021

COMMITING TO CHANGE

Sustainability is at the heart of Breitling’s forward-thinking strategy and continues to drive the brand’s evolutionary spirit. Its mission, defined by an inclusive stakeholder group, is based on five pillars: Product, Planet, People, Process, and Prosperity. These are detailed in a yearly Sustainability Mission Report, accessible on breitling.com, providing a transparent insight into the company’s sustainable practices and efforts. Consequently, Breitling is one of the only watch companies that provides quantifiable evidence of its progress on this frontier. In the same year, Breitling committed to achieving zero plastic waste across its operations by 2025. Breitling opened the first Breitling Boutique Café in the Zurich department store, Jelmoli. This innovative concept allowed customers to interact with the brand in a relaxed, pressure-free environment, further embodying Breitling’s commitment to a casual, inclusive luxury experience.

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2023

EXPANDING HORIZONS

Breitling launched the Navitimer Automatic 36 and 32, a collection of three-hand Navitimers that blend the brand's iconic design with a pastel palette. Following the Origins model, this mother-of-pearl dial variant features gold sourced from small-scale mines adhering to the Swiss Better Gold Association’s stringent standards and traceable, lab-grown diamonds. Represented by actor, producer, and philanthropist Charlize Theron, this streamlined, sustainable version of the Breitling icon exemplifies elegance and ethical craftsmanship. Breitling introduced several new models, including the Navitimer 747, celebrating the iconic Boeing aircraft, and the Chronomat Six Nations, commemorating Breitling's partnership with Six Nations Rugby. The Top Time Classic Cars collection returned with updated designs and the Premier B01 models were released with a new heritage-inspired design and the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.

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In August, Breitling opened the Then & Now pop-up museum in Zurich, a major milestone for the brand. Spanning three floors, the museum featured the three brand universes—Air, Land, and Sea—offering unique insights into remarkable moments in the brand’s heritage through interactive displays, rare vintage watches, and historic memorabilia. Additionally, the brand introduced three special anniversary pieces, each equipped with the revolutionary Breitling Caliber 19. This perpetual calendar movement, which only needs to be adjusted once a century, comes with an impressive 96-hour power reserve, marking another notable achievement in Breitling's history. Despite the backdrop of a global pandemic and energy crisis, Breitling didn’t just survive; it thrived. Today, the company is poised to continue its growth in the luxury watch market and expand into other lifestyle offerings. Breitling has come a long way in the last five years, but as CEO Georges Kern always says, “This is just the beginning.”